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  • Floor Jack and Jack stands / Lift

  • Large ratchet and extension for the ratchet to reach in tight places; or air tools or heavy duty Hand Tool

  • 15mm and 16mm socket for all 8 bolts on the Y-Pipe

  • 13mm socket for the middle arm support on the y-pipe

  • Some Kroll or other rust removing oil

JPP main photo 1[819].jpeg
step 1.PNG


  1. Start with removing the plastic weather undertray shield (if needed).

  2. Then remove the front support bracket on the Y-Pipe.

  3. Just two 16mm bolts and one 16mm nut

STEP 1 (PT 2)

Same Photo, However With Support Bracket Removed

step 1 pt 2.PNG


  1. Next remove the bolts mounting up the front header.

  2. The first flange had three 16mm bolts.

step 2.PNG

STEP 2 (PT 2)

Here is the same photo with the bolts removed.

step 3.PNG


  1. Next remove the 3 bolts from the rear header flange.

  2. This second flange had three 16mm nuts

STEP 3 (PT 2)

Here is the same flange with the nuts removed. The nuts screw on to a threaded rod which threads into the other flange.



  1. Next move on to the last flange on the rear of the stock Y-pipe.

  2. Just 2 15mm nuts. These can be very tight so oil well.

  3. New bolts are included in the JPP kit.

step 4.PNG
p 5.PNG


  1. The last part to take out the factory Y-pipe you can either remove the gooseneck mount or slide the ypipe out.

  2. Wait until last to take this out so that it could support the the y-pipe as you take everything else off.

  3. Here is a picture of the middle goose neck mount. Two easy to remove bolts.

Finished Product

Now you should have your factory y-pipe down and can compare it against your new one. Big difference. The goose neck mount is a little skinnier. The sharp 180 degree turn on the front of the y-pipe has been lengthened to a long radius 180. The back cat has been deleted and the pinch in the middle of the pipe is a smooth flow of the same size keeping all the velocity of your exhaust the same.



When installing the new y-pipe I highly recommend replacing the gaskets with the new ones in the JPP kit. The new pipe doesn't have the same neck for the ring to sit on anymore, so to keep the new gaskets in place some RTV gasket sealant is recommended. The ring is NOT necessary, it can be used as an extra seal in case of air leaks. As long as the gaskets are used and all bolts are tightened down to create an air-tight seal, you will be fine. To Re-install start with the hanger mount for help supporting it up. Be careful not to knock your gaskets out of place so they can seal where they need to seal. If having difficulty getting the flanges to align, you can always slide the ypipe out of the hanger and start with 1 bolt in the front header (do not tighten all the way), then 1 bolt in the rear header and alternate back and forth. Then you can tighten all 6. The flex pipes were designed to bend when tightening. Also if necessary you can use the jack to push the ypipe up for support. This should be very tight and that’s a good thing. You will notice some smells after about three minutes of starting the car up but after driving it will go away completely in 1-2 days. Please let me know if you have any issues at all. I am available for support 24/7 @ 702-327-3256. Thank you so much! Adam, CEO



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